Hair News
The SLS Scare
Have you read any of the sls scare tactics on the web? Websites and email are printing a multitude of misinformation about a key ingredient in many shampoos and toothpaste. This link will take you to a great website that weeds through all this misinformation. Follow this link to read some of what has been written and also the real truth behind this ingredient. They even have research to prove the claims are false.
How Hair Coloring Works
Ever wonder just how most hair color works? These are the people to visit. They have a fun site about How Stuff Works and have done a great job explaining hair color. Of course, Robert Craig's 'Color by Robert Craig' works a little differently and to read about this No Ammonia, No Peroxide color follow this link.
Click here for the article on How Hair Color Works.
Yale study ponders psychology of bad hair days
July 1, 1998 Consumer Reports does the first ever haircolor evaluation
In the July, 1998 issue of Consumer Reports they evaluated some of the over the counter haircolor products. Although I don't think the tests were up to Consumer's standards, there is a lot of very useful information about haircolor in general. The evaluation of salons was not even worth putting in the article and they only used one professional colorist and a panel of experts. Check out the article for the findings. They evaluated men's and women's products and the results are interesting.
February 1, 1998 Hope for Hairless Found in gene Research
Leading researcher, Angela Christiano, of Columbia University led scientists to discover a gene that causes a rare and extreme form of hair loss. This finding could eventually lead researchers to a better remedy for common hereditary baldness.
Scientists discovered the gene by studying a Pakistani family who were plagued by a form of alopecia universalis. People with this disease are born with no eyelashes or eyebrows and never grow body hair.
Researchers named the gene "hairless". This gene regulates the same hair follicle and appears to switch on other hair related genes. By studying how the gene works, scientists are able to get a better understanding of hair growth and loss.
This new information will hopefully allow researchers to learn about other genes that control and regulate hair growth and loss.
Grey-hair blues could fade away
June 20, 1997 London--HATE that grey? Desmond Tobin may be able to make it go away.
The Bradford University scientist has made a discovery that may mean one day people won't have to go grey, if they don't want to. And those already grey would be able to reverse the process.
Tobin has found a way to activate pigment cells in grey and white hair. If it can be done safely on humans, the days of messy home hair dyes or expensive visits to beauty salons could be a thing of the past-for those satisfied with the hair colour nature gave them.
"For those who want to change the color of their hair, the hair dyes will continue," Tobin said yesterday.
"But for those who use hair colour purely as a way of coverage of grey and white hair, I think it could be a possibility." If it works, it will likely be viewed as a miracle cure for the blues that often set in when the greys, those unmistakeable signs of aging, materialize.
Even Tobin, 32, knows what that feels like. He's going grey around his ears. "I've been hearing that it adds gravitas to people's characters," said Tobin, who teaches biomedical sciences.
"I wouldn't mind getting a little gravitas at 45, perhaps, but I think I could go at least another few years without gravitas."
Hair goes grey or white when the cells that produce pigment-called melanocytes-become exhausted. Your genetic clock determines whether that happens in your 40s, 50s-or 20s.
But the follicles of grey and white hairs retain a reservoir of dormant melanocytes.
What Tobin has done is figure out a way to get those dormant cells to reproduce and to start making pigment. To date it has only been done in a test tube.
Tobin uses what he calls growth factors to kick start the melanocytes into production. Tests still have to be done to determine the best and safest growth factor for use on humans.
If all works out, the idea would be to concoct a lotion or shampoo that would be applied to the scalp.
Tobin said it's not yet clear how long an application would last. It might be something that would have to be reapplied from time to time. But it is conceivable that it could last from three to six years.
That's the normal length of the hair cycle; after that, hairs fall out and are regenerated. Tobin said it's possible the process might last for the lifetime of the hair.
But don't cancel next week's touch-up appointment, or throw out the Grecian Formula. It could take a decade or two for Tobin's discovery to make it to a drugstore near you.
The balding issue and new cures
Minoxidol is the only FDA approved drug on the market to date that offers hope to the follically challanged. Two new drugs show a lot of promise and may soon gain approval. Merck's Propecia should be available by the end of this year. A tablet that shows promise of new hair growth and slows deterioration of the follicle. Tricomin is a new additive for shampoos and conditioners that is expected to be out some time next year. This additive appears to slow the shedding of hair while increasing hair's density. A complete report of these new found miracles will appear in the April issue of Esquire Magazine. Until then, if you want to check in with those in the know, look into the newsgroup alt.baldspot where rumor has it the hair gurus hang out.
Lead in Haircolor?
February 5th, 1997 Once again the newspapers and television reporters are on our profession's case and putting a scare into the public over haircolor. The recent reports of lead in haircolor are not new. Products containing this ingredient have been on the market for years and are never used by professional colorists. The researchers tested residual lead levels in the hair and on the hands of users, but did not check tissue or blood samples. The affected products were primarily the "gradual color" products that are the most heavily advertised for men (Grecian Formula, Youthair and similar preparations). A spokesperson for the company that manufacutures Grecian Formula issued a statement strongly denying any danger in using the products and asserting their absolute safety. Our resident chemist, Rick, puts it like this:
"Maybe I can shed some light on this subject. Some dyes contain metal atoms. These are known as metallic dyes. The best-known metallic hair dye is "Grecian formula" which contains lead acetate. When lead acetate is in contact with air, it decomposes to form finely-divided metallic lead. Other metallic dyes contain metals trapped or chelated in some sort of organic matrix. Most hair dyes are non-metallic. The problem comes when someone wants to dye hair that has been previously-colored with a metallic dye. Most conventional hair dyes use hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) to "develop" the color and to lighten the hair. Many metals will catalyze the decomposition of hydrogen peroxide. When it decomposes, it forms water (H2O) and oxygen (O2) and when this occurs, a lot of heat is produced. The heat can cause severe scalp burns. There are products that can remove metals and metallic dyes. As Robert noted, they are best used by a professional who knows what to do. It is definitely not a do-it-yourself project."
As the reports stated, Grecian formula is a product that should probably be avoided. Professional colorists have looked for and avoided this type of product for years. Perm solution coming in contact with a lead acetate can literally disintegrate the hair.
Smoking Linked to Grey Hair
Recent studies concluded that cigarette smoking contributes to premature grey hair. Studies done in England showed a direct link between smoking and accelerated aging and it effected early greying especially in the over forty age group. We have known for years that smoking effects skin by increasing wrinkles and now we know it has a major negative effect on our hair. Just one more reason to 'kick the habit'.
Does Hair Color Cause Cancer?
Hair color has been one of the most rigorously tested cosmetics on the market to date. Every few years the media decide to pose the cancer/hair color issue and another study is done. The results are always the same. NO INCREASED RISK. The latest study, Reprinted from the March 1994 issue of Medical Sciences Bulletin, involved 573,369 women and the results were reported in the Journal of the National Cancer Institute by Harvard researchers. "We found no evidence of positive association between use of permanent hair dye and all hematopoietic cancers for a specific type (Hodgkin's lymphoma, non Hodgkin's - Lymphoma, multiple myeloma, cronic lymphocytic leukemia and other leukemias)." They went on to say that age at the time of first use, how long you used the products, how often and how long you have been coloring had "no material associations" to blood and lymph system cancer risk.
Are You Losing Your Hair?
A certain amount of hair is shed daily. This is nature's method of making way for new hair. The average daily shedding is estimated at 50-80 hairs. Hair loss beyond this estimated average may indicate some scalp or hair disorder. Seasons of the year, nutrition, hormones, stress and overall health also influence the rate of growth, loss and replacement of hair. Shedding occurs 24 hours a day; however, if you wear your hair in a pony tail or don't shampoo on a daily basis, loose hair that would normally fall away throughout the day will show up all at once in your drain. With this in mind, you can lose a considerable amount of hair without any need for concern.
For Women
Chemical services during pregnancy is always a question. The decision to have or not have certain services should be made after consulting your doctor, your hairdresser and your feelings. Pregnancy may also affect hair growth, loss, condition, and even the amount of curl. Changes may last up to 1 year after birth and can remain indefinitely.
Scientists Discover "Cure" For Grey Hair
The New York Times reported researchers at a biotechnology company in California stumbled on a possible cure for grey hair during cancer research studies. The researchers found that they could use liposomes to deposit melanin, the pigment that gives hair it's color, inside follicles and "color hair from the roots up." They went on to report "Products based on liposomes could be in use within 10 years." "The first products would most likely be used to restore color to grey hair by delivering pigments to the hair follicles."
Microwave What?
Here's a tip for you microwave owners I discovered during a recent facial. The steamy hot towels were done in the microwave. Hey, it's not just for re-heating food. Wet and wring out a towel or wash cloth and nuke it on high for 30 seconds and presto-chango: you have yourself a hot, steamy towel without burning the first layer of skin off your hands. Wrap it around your hair during a deep conditioning treatment. It will improve the performance of the product. Use it to steam your face during a home-facial. I use a steamy wash cloth on my beard before applying shaving cream like the barbers used to do.
Sunscreens
With all the warnings every summer about avoiding the sun I'd like to get my SPF2¢ in. Ultra-violet rays lighten hair color. Natural or otherwise. Experts recommend a minimum protection factor of PF15 with frequent reapplication for skin. So what about your hair? I suggest wearing a hat, but if you're not a hat person, those sun-screens in shampoos and conditioners do little, if anything. What is the logic behind putting sun-screen in shampoo, anyway? I suppose it's the same people in marketing selling us a floor wax that can strip off the old wax, scrub the floor clean, rinse and re-apply a new finish in one stroke of the mop. The only chance you have of UV protection via products is with those that stay in the hair. I suggest a leave-in conditioning spray that contains both UVA and UVB sunscreens.
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