SO, YOU WANT TO BE A BLONDE!!
Or a beautiful brown
Time and again I am asked to help fix a color problem. It is usually the same story. I wanted to be a blonde or a light brown but now I am orange. What can I do? One of the reasons I chose to develop a product like Color by Robert Craig that contains no peroxide or ammonia is due to the fact that most permanent haircolors cause hair to turn orange when trying to push the lightening abilities of a color. So, you want to be a blonde or a great brunette! Well here are some tips to help you avoid those ugly brassy results. You can print this page out for easy reference
If you are trying to go more than three shades lighter than your natural color be it brown or blonde, then you will need to use a bleach to get a believable result. This is referred to as a double process. Anything other than that can result in a brassy or red/orange look. It may not appear the first week or so, but as the dye fades, that was deposited in your hair during the coloring process, your hair will be left with an unpleasant appearance. First you remove the natural color from your hair and then you put in the color that you want.
Using bleach can be a little tricky so I am going to recommend you have a friend or family member help with the application. Lets determine what it is you want to accomplish. If you want to go from dark brown to a light brown but without a lot of red, then you need bleach. If you want to go from a light brown/dark blonde to a light blonde, then you need bleach. I will describe the steps below. You also need to take into consideration the current condition of your hair. Is it colored? Do you have a regrowth? Have you bleached before and need to touch it up? Do you have any other chemical services on your hair like a perm or relaxer? Is your hair thin or course? Do you have any grey?
Choosing a Bleach:
Unless you are doing highlights, and for highlights or special effects, you can use our new Ultra Blond Highlight Kit, you will need to purchase bleach that is specifically for hair and one that can be safely used on the scalp. Not all hair bleach is safe to use on the scalp and until we develop an on-scalp bleach for sale on our site, you will have to trust the advice of your local beauty supply personnel. They will guide you to an on-scalp bleach and the proper developer to mix with it. As hair lightens with bleach, it goes through color changes. Using the Stages of Bleaching Hair chart below find the stage that is lighter than you want as a final result or lighter than the toner you are going to use.
Grey hair turns blonde when bleached.
The Color Basket:
If you are planning on coloring your hair more than once then a haircolor basket will be a great convenience. You will want an old shirt to wear preferable without a collar. Two old towels that you donít care if they get stained, a box of hairclips, and a minute timer. Often it will pay to invest in a box of professional vinyl gloves that can be easily purchased at the drug store. Ask your pharmacist. A box of 100 is usually around $10.00 and come in sizes. A mirror, some cotton or an old washcloth, a blow dryer, and some good music can go into your basket. Keeping these items together will make your coloring experience a pleasure and help avoid having to redecorate your bathroom because of haircolor stains.
The next step is to determine where your hair is now. Choose from the following and follow the instructions.
I do not have any haircolor or other chemical services in my hair at this time.
This is referred to as a virgin bleach application. Understand that heat from your scalp and the strength of the peroxide bleach is mixed with affect the speed of lightening. A test strand is an absolute must. The application of bleach must begin one half inch from the scalp. Fine partings must be taken and the hair must be saturated for an even outcome. Once the application is complete, the timing must be set according to your test strand. It is a good idea to go through the hair again and look for missed areas. Start going through the hair in the same pattern you used to apply the bleach. If you see areas that were missed, you can touch them up. When the midshaft and the ends of the hair have reached the half way color according to the chart above you can apply the bleach to the scalp. Once the hair has reached the right stage of lightness, you should use cool water to rinse the bleach from the hair. Gently shampoo the hair and rinse well. Wrap hair in a towel to absorb excess water and follow the instructions below for toning.
I have a perm or relaxer in my hair.
I do not recommend using bleach over permanent wave solution or relaxers. This can cause the hair to break, or worse, to melt. If this is something you want to attempt, find a competent haircolorist to consult with and perform the work.
I have color or bleach in my hair but no new growth.
If you want to remove the color you have in your hair, lighten it some or further lighten already bleached hair then follow the instructions for a virgin bleach application above. As always, a test strand is a must for timing and condition of hair. To make a bleach shampoo which will lighten a little and be more gentle on the hair, mix the bleach formula and add three tablespoons of Robert Craig Shampoo and three tablespoons of Robert Craig Conditioner. This will buffer the bleach, dilute it and condition as it is lightening. Once the hair has reached the right stage of lightness, you should use cool water to rinse the bleach from the hair. Gently shampoo the hair and rinse well. Wrap hair in a towel to absorb excess water and follow the instructions below for toning.
I have color or bleach in my hair and have a new growth.
This is a simple touch up but still requires care in application. No more than 4 weeks growth should be present. If you go longer you may get an off colored band in your hair. After parting your hair into four sections apply the bleach to the parts and then the whole hairline. Then begin with fine partings and apply the bleach to the scalp. Remember bleach will swell slightly and as you lay each section over it should only cover the new growth. Do not overlap the bleach onto previously bleached hair or you may have breakage. After your application is complete set your timer. It is a good idea to go through the hair again and look for missed areas. Start going through the hair in the same pattern you used for the application. If you see areas that were missed, you can touch them up. Once the hair has reached the right stage of lightness, you should use cool water to rinse the bleach from the hair. Gently shampoo the hair and rinse well. Wrap hair in a towel to absorb excess water and follow the instructions below for toning.
Color by Robert Craig is the best product to use as a toner after bleaching. The reason is simple. No peroxide or ammonia to further damage your hair and it has fantastic conditioning properties. Choose a shade that you want to use and simply follow the directions. Remember, Color by Robert Craig is only available on our web site. It can be used to refresh your color as often as you want. It is a very gentle product to use.
A Service provided by color by Robert Craig hair, Inc.
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